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Dulwich Park fields
In 1886 the Estates Governors – established only three years earlier to manage Alleyn’s foundation’s properties in Dulwich and elsewhere – donated to the newly created London County Council about 72 acres in central Dulwich to form a public park. They asked in return only that some memorial to Edward Alleyn be erected in it. To this request Lord Rosebery, Chairman of the L.C.C., is alleged to have replied that he "doubted if the Council would entertain such unpardonable extravagance, but that it might consider putting up some stone, some very cheap stone which would not materially affect the rates, in honour of this great occasion". There is no memorial to Alleyn in the Park, but one of the entrances to it, at the south-east corner, is called the Rosebery Gate.
This apparent generosity on the part of the Estate Governors may not have been so remarkable as at first appears. Keen to avoid the overcrowding of houses which was becoming a feature of neighbouring parts of south London, a ‘green lung’ for the local inhabitants fitted well with their plans for more leisurely and refined development of the area. Whatever their motives, the resulting ‘Dulwich Park’, the 1884 design for which by Charles Barry junior (Architect to the Governors) is reproduced here, is happily still with us today.
The land on which the Park was constructed over the few years after 1886 had been divided by a watercourse, probably originating in the Sydenham hills, and running from the south-east corner of the Park to Herne Hill and beyond, crossing College Road just south of the Old College – the Dulwich Picture Gallery has been built over part of it. The only evidence of it now visible above ground is the ornamental boating lake which incorporates it in the centre of the Park, and the short stretch of water immediately west of the lake. (The one to the east, shown on Barry’s plan, was in the event filled in.) To the south of that watercourse were fields which in medieval times were called Dickriddings and Annesfields, and to the north of it was the remnant of Court Farm, comprising fields formerly called Hunger Hill, the Long Field (or The Seven Acres), Haythorne Field, and Haythorne Shott, all (with, for a time, Dickriddings) part of what had formerly been Dulwich Court Farm, straddling the present Court Lane. Linking Court Farm to College Road was a narrow two-acre field called Waterings. As that was to form the entrance to the Park, it is appropriate to start with it.
WATERINGS
Dulwich Park’s main concourse from the Old College Gate entrance, almost as far as where the ‘carriage way’ divides, was constructed through the middle of a 2-acre field formerly called Waterings. (Confusingly, there was another parcel called Waterings in the 15th century, part of Perifield in north Dulwich.) In medieval times this lay between a 4-acre field called Cockmans to the north, and a 3-acre copyhold called Goryland to the south.
Waterings (not the Perifield Waterings) is first definitely mentioned in the Court Rolls for December 1608, when [Henry or Katherine] Collyns was order to scour his (or her) ditch between Hathorne field and John Casinghurst’s land as far as the close called Wateringes, and Edmund Curson (then the copyholder of Goryland) to scour his ditch from Wateringes to the highway. Not until after Alleyn’s death do we hear of a tenant of Waterings – John Scrivener, from 1626/27, paying £1 a year. From 1629, without official comment, it was added to his lease of two houses and four acres (part of Cockmans) at £7 a year. Scrivener was succeeded by Richard Wells in 1641 and he by Grevil Lewis in 1679, although in the meantime one of the houses was operated, by Sarah Bodger or Badger, as an inn called ‘The Little Feathers’. She sold her interest, whatever it was, to Thomas Hill in 1679, and he immediately sold on to Grevil Lewis, who became tenant in his own right. By now ‘The Little Feathers’ was just ‘The Feathers’, and Lewis renamed it ‘The Bell’. The four acres adjoining to the north became known as ‘Bell Meadows’ or occasionally ‘Bell Field’.
John Taylor took over in 1697, and remained listed in the College Rent Books as tenant until March 1718, when the premises, including Waterings, are described as “vacant”. By then the College was embroiled in legal proceedings with Taylor’s Estate, not finally settled until 1720 when the Lord Chancellor gave judgment in the College’s favour. Nevertheless, in September 1719 the holding was split into three, with part let to Richard Cooper at £24 p.a., part to Francis Friend at £15 p.a., and the remainder to Samuel Swaine at £9 p.a., a very substantial increase on Taylor’s former rent of £13 (and two capons) a year. Unfortunately it is impossible to tell which part included Waterings. All three holdings had a public house of some description on the site. Cooper’s had no name other than ‘The Tavern’, but his lease included a covenant not to sell any liquor except wine, so Dulwich may possibly lay claim to the nation’s earliest wine bar. It may have been the house built on Waterings – again, unfortunately we do not know. Friend had ‘The Bell’ (and Bell Meadows behind), and from 1741 took over Cooper’s former premises as well. Swaine had ‘The Mount’, which when Guy Cornish took it over in 1721 was predictably renamed ‘The Cornish Mount’. In 1740 Mr Cornish’s widow gave way to Robert Gay, who renamed his house ‘The Bricklayer’s Arms’. Not that one should cast aspersions, but all three establishments were easily within staggering distance of the College, with most of its adult occupants being potential customers. (Any underage drinkers among the twelve Poor Scholars, if they were wise, would have sought an establishment further afield.) ‘The Bell’ lay immediately opposite the north end of the Almshouses, and ‘The Bricklayer’s Arms’, by 1772 renamed ‘The French Horn’, was a little to the north of it, approximately where the entrance to Woodyard Lane now is.
By 1792 ‘The Bell’ had been demolished and replaced by two houses, both of them leased to Mrs Ann Adams, succeeded by her daughters Lucy and Isabella, and by 1854 the two houses had either amalgamated into, or been rebuilt as, one house. In 1876 the lease reverted to the College Governors, and although they retained and allowed the development of Bell Meadows, the house on the site of ‘The Bell’ was demolished to make way for the entrance to Dulwich Park.
As for the former Waterings, we know only from old lease plans of the 1790s that Mrs Sarah Miller was its occupier. She was the widow of Joseph Miller, who as well as being the tenant of ‘The Half Moon’ at Herne Hill had also in 1754 acquired Francis Friend’s lease of ‘The Bell’. However, I have not traced any lease which specifically shows the property, so what happened to the field from 1804, when Thomas Turk took over Mrs Miller’s property in the Village, until 1886, I cannot say, but the house at the north-west corner of the field was certainly demolished when the Park was laid out, and indeed the Old College Gate lies immediately to the west of it.
ANNESFIELDS and DICKRIDDINGS
The Court Rolls for September 1334 refer to “...the lord's oats in Annayesfelde”, but the name (or any variant of it) does not resurface until 1542, when a royal survey of the Dulwich woods and commons refers to “hedgerowes in Annes feld” and one of 1544 tells us that “Three hedgerowes in Annes feld conteyneth [2 acres 3 roods]”. We know that in all there were six fields all called Annesfields or Annisfields (or, once, Agnesfeilds), and we have a very good idea what area they covered although not precisely how that area was divided up. The available evidence occasionally seems contradictory. Thus Nicholas Calton’s settlement, as lord of the manor, on his son Francis in January 1575 included “a pasture called Annesfield ” (12 acres). A terrier of c.1600 appears to refers to it in the singular as 4 acres, Edward Alleyn, in a diary entry for 23rd June 1621, refers to “Annesfields, 3 fields, 8½ acres”, the College Rent Book for 1626/27 to “the 3 Annis feilds (12 acres)” and “2 annis feilds & dickariddens (12 acres)”, and a 1629 lease to Edmond Redman refers to “6 parcels called Agnesfeilds”, 22 acres.
From 1530 or earlier until at least 1581 Dickriddings was let as part of Dulwich Court farm, but after Edward Alleyn’s acquisition of the manor it became part of a different and smaller farm, mostly comprising the six Annesfields, extending along Dulwich Common from the present Rosebery Gate almost to College Road.
Dickriddings, otherwise Dyckryddens, Dickaridens, Dickairdinges, Dickariddinges, etc., was described as a 4-acre close of pasture in 1573, the date of its first mention. The name probably has nothing to do with the Old English word ‘riding’, meaning ‘a third part’, which was in common use only in those parts of England (and Ireland) which had come under Norse influence. More likely it derives from ‘ryddynges’, another Old English word meaning a clearing in a wood, in this case made by someone called Richard. Dickriddings would have been near, if not actually next to, Hamonds Coppice. and we know that Hamonds Coppice, on the north side of Dulwich Common at the junction with Lordship Lane, was not cleared of its woods until Edward Alleyn’s time. Whoever ‘Dick’ was, and we shall almost certainly never know, he probably carried out the original clearance, with the consent, if not the active encouragement, of the lord of the manor, many years before 1573. Nor do we have any better idea which of Dulwich’s several known Annes or Annies, (or Agneses) those eponymous fields were named for, if indeed it was any of them.
We do not know precisely where Dickriddings was in relation to Annesfields. Such tantalising clues as there are – e.g. a named tenant being told to unclog his watercourse between his field and Dickriddings, or vice versa – point to it being a field north-west of the Rosebery Gate. In 1629 Edmond Redman, who according to the College Rent Books had already been in occupation for nearly three years, took a lease from the College of a house (on the site of Bell House) and lands called Dick Riddinges (4 acres), 6 parcels called Agnesfields (22 acres), and Crouchmans (3 acres, later mis-named Crutchard, on which the house was built), supposedly 29 acres in all. In fact we know from later, more accurate, measurement that it was just over 32 acres. In 1635 Redman assigned the lease to his sisters-in-law Bathsheba and Avis Casinghurst – he had married their sister Denise or Dionis – but kept the actual lease document, presumably as a form of mortgage. In 1657 the holding was split – Silvester Cutter took a lease of Crouchmans and the house on it – and in 1659 Bathsheba, who in the meantime had married and been widowed by Mathew Shepard, was granted her own lease of the rest of the premises, with what must have been a new farmhouse on it somewhere along the north side of Dulwich Common. The same farm was subsequently leased to John Davis in 1681 and to his son, also John Davis, in 1700, when 17 acres called Peckamins on the south side of Dulwich Common were added to it. Dickriddings and Annesfields are not mentioned by name after 1681.
Later lessees were Thomas and William Seagood in 1737 (by which time there were two houses) and William Seagood alone in 1749. His premises were described as three recently-erected houses and eight fields of arable and/or pasture adjoining them, just over 29 acres in all, and Peckamins. We can infer that the Seagoods, one of whom was a plasterer and the other a bricklayer, had demolished and replaced the original house to a much higher standard than previously, and more suitable for gentry than for yeoman farmers. William was succeeded in 1772 by Ann Seagood, who remained as tenant of the whole, occupying one of the houses herself, until 1783, when another split took place. Three of the meadows, formerly Annesfields, totalling 12 acres 2 roods and 14 perches, were added to Alderman Thomas Wright’s lease of Bell House and its 3-acre garden (formerly Crouchmans, or Crutchard), and those three fields were eventually to be wholly incorporated into Dulwich Park. The three houses can almost certainly be identified with those which later became known as ‘Glenlea’ (now ‘Tappen House’), ‘Ryecotes’ (demolished 1966, the site of Ryecotes Mead) and ‘Cypress House’. The remaining former Annesfields were parcelled up between these holdings. Once a dispute between the College and one Mainwaring Davies concerning his lease of a substantial farm on the south side of Dulwich Common had been settled in 1789, what had probably been Dickriddings was leased with other land to Percival North, who built a house on it, later known as ‘The Elms’. It may or may not be relevant to our main subject, Dulwich Park, that in 1790 the College ordered that 25 oaks and 25 elms should be planted “near North’s premises”. By the time Dulwich Park came into being the tenant of ‘The Elms’ was James Cowie, whose lease did not expire until 1904, allowing part of his premises – probably most of the former Dickriddings – to be added late to the Park, thus completing Charles Barry’s design for it, reproduced above. Likewise Mr C. R. Lindsay (of Glenlea), Mr Culloch (of Ryecotes) Mr Samuel S. Brown (of Cypress House) and Mr F. Marshall all had land taken from their back gardens (or in Marshall’s case from land he intended for development), all former Annesfields, to add to the new Park.
Patrick Darby, 1/9/2013
(File created 19 September 1998. Re-formatted 9 July 2024.)